Wednesday, January 25, 2023

Queenstown

 If you've been to one high end tourist town, you've been to them all. They all smell the same - an all-pervading scent of hot-chips, sun cream and melting ice cream. Tourist towns bustle along. Everybody either looks lost or too cool for school. There's no in-between. These places tend to be physically stunning but lacking in a bit of soul. And everything is bloody expensive. 

So, if you were going by your senses, you could be mistaking one place, say Mykonos, or Torquay or Victor Harbor, Byron Bay or Noosa, for anywhere else. 

And on first appearances, Queenstown is just another tourist trap with all the same scents, the same people and the same ice cream. Just instead of the sun cream, which it turns out you need, the gale blowing off Lake Wakatipu rids the place of the tourist town scents. 

And yes, I'm being a bit critical. I've got a lot of friends who love it here, but they come for the skiing, the snowboarding, and some for the watersports and hiking - none of which interests me. 

I got in at lunchtime, parked the car at the hotel, then walked down the big hill to find some lunch. 

Half a dozen oysters, a small bowl of chips and a Bloody Mary. I wasn't driving for the rest of the day - why not. I chose a pub like place for lunch and was basically ignored by the waiting stuff for five minutes. When will the younger wait staff work out that we single middle-aged women have both money and clout? The oysters were okay, the chips good and the Bloody Mary, bloody awesome - but the lousy service left a bad taste. When paying, I was asked to give a tip. I refused. Sorry, things were okay, but the wait staff were surly. They'd lost me. The girl on the desk apologised,but the damage was done. 

To try cheer myself up, I went and found an ice cream at a recommended ice cream shop - Patagonia. The ice cream was stunning, but being a warm day, the place was heaving. A cone with a scoop of coffee ice cream, and one called Tramontana, which was a caramel and chocolate chip swirl arrangement. It helped. It was a good ice cream. 


After a walk around the foreshore, I went back to the hotel, after having a look at the eponymous Fergburger, which was lined with queuing people taking selfies. I don't queue for food. I don't need another burger. By that time, I just wanted a cool shower and make myself ready to see an old workmate, Dee, who's recently moved over here. 

Dee turned up on time. It was great to see her. 

And my view of Queenstown was tempered.

A little local knowledge is a great thing. 

Dee and I wandered into town caught up over a couple of gin and tonics, some oysters and seafood chowder, while looking over the lake. The bar, Eichardt's, was quiet. The staff were wonderful, attentive, without being fussy. The gins were locally sourced. I had one from Broken Hearts distilled in Christchurch, the other from Roots from Marlborough (which Geetangeli and I sampled the other day). 


On the way out I had a chat with the barman, another gin freak. We started talking about gin. The question came again, "Do you know about Never Never?". Do I know about Never Never?... Gin is a good thing to help you bond with people. And it's better than smoking and you don't smell bad afterwards. 

It was great to catch up with Dee. We haven't seen each other since lock down started, so there was a bit to talk about. In all, a great evening. 

And my faith in Queenstown was restored. 

I still don't have any real reason to be here. I'm not going skiing or hiking. I've been jet boating in a past life. At $47 a pop, I don't feel the need to ride the gondola to the top of the hill. It's very pretty here. Lake Wakutipu is glorious. Stunning. But it's a tourist town. (Give me Dunedin any day). 

Tomorrow, I make my way back to Christchurch. Geetangeli's asked that I stop in at a place to pick up a box or two of stone fruit. Dee has given me explicit directions - it's all good. It's going to be a long drive. 

Then Friday, I head back to Australia. 

I've forgotten how much I love travel. This trip, although short, has been most wonderful. There should be more of it. 


Today's song: 








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