Yesterday, I outsourced the planning of my day to ChatGPT. Design me a day in Paris, I told it don't go to these places. I want churches and I want quirky and I want cheap.
Today, I used some of its suggestions and sent myself out into the Parisian streets.
I returned six hours and 20,000 steps later with sore feet and a happy heart.
Today's objective was to see some old stuff and some cultural stuff - and ChatGPT had some great ideas - but I got to do a bit more.
I had a sleep in - much needed and enjoyed, setting off around 11 a.m. The first stop was the church of St Paul and St Louis. ChatGPT said that this one was often overlooked - I cannot see why anybody would miss this gem. Gorgeous place. Amazing baroque architecture. Gobsmackingly beautiful. And I had the place almost to myself. There were a couple of quiet, respectful tour groups in there, but they were fine. It was a great start to the day.
The next stop was a late brunch, early lunch. After eating restaurant food for the last two weeks, I wanted something a bit plainer. The BVH canteen, not dissimilar to the Myer or John Martin's cafeteria (remember them) was a great, budget option.
After this, the next church. A quick visit to the Church of Saint Gervais and Saint Protais. Another gorgeous edifice. Another gothic gem.
Then off for a walk. Taking myself down, past the Hotel de Ville, over the Seine, past Notre Dame I slowly made my way to the Sorbonne area, stopping in on the Church of St Nicholas on the way. (Not on the ChatGPT list.) This one felt like a working church. Prayers were being said. I remained quiet, respectful, as I made my way around.
There is something very calming about watching as people pray - actually pray. This what got me about this church. France is a Catholic country. Although I'm not Catholic, nor a Christian, I do see the value of sitting down and taking some time out to think about things, whether you're talking to your perceived deity or not. I also get that all of this money spent on these buildings could be spent feeding the poor, giving reparations to all of the damage done by abusive clergy and the like. But I also look at what we have here, how various spaces are used, and being the good little agnostic, I can appreciate quiet spaces and beauty. Yes, I'm a church and cathedral nut - it doesn't mean I love what the Catholic Church stands for.
But old churches feel my soul. I love feeling the prayers of hundreds of years swirl around me
Back out on the street, the plan when out the window a bit. I wanted to go to the Church of St Etienne du Mont (Or St Stephens on the Hill if you want my best vernacular). This was not opening until 2.30. I got there an hour early. I also wanted to visit the Genevieve Library - but that was only open for timed, free tickets for a very limited exhibition. So, I booked the next available ticket and did something better - I went to the Pantheon, which was across the road. 16 Euro to get in, but worth every cent if it.
The Pantheon is like a mix of a church and a memorial space, an although there are religious references, it has the feel of a revolution and war memorial. Also, in the middle, Foucault's pendulum swings on. (I loved to book by Umberto Eco.)
Also, on display are incredibly effective works by Anselm Keifer and Pascal Dusapin. I've seen some of Keifer's work at MONA - his works are bleak and affecting. This was worth the ticket price alone.
After nearly an hour there, I had a quick look around the Genevieve Library - I wasn't able to sit and have a write, but I did get to have a quick sticky beak. Nothing wrong with that - it was gorgeous.
Then it was over to St Stephen's on the Mount - all of these were two minutes' walk from each other. The Church was incredible. Made even better by the organ which was playing in the background. I bit of a pilgrimage was made to the Chapel of Sainte Genevieve. I have a friend who keeps reminding me that she's named after the Patron Saint of Paris. As I was one of the first ones in, I could take the place in. It was remarkable.
From there, I went for a walk, took in the joys of the deepest darkest 5th Arrondissement, hopping on the Metro and making my way to the Richelieu Library, where I tried to Australian my way in. It didn't work, but I got a quick squizz, then sat in the gardens for a bit.
After this, it was over to Les Halles, with another visit to Saint Eustache cathedral, and a trip to the Monoprix canteen for a Jambon Buerre for dinner.
Then, another Metro ride back to Republique, then a five-minute walk home.
Six hours, three cans of Coke Zero, five churches and a very happy Pandora later, I ran the bath in my AirBNB and slunk into the tub.
It's been a good, unexpected day.
And despite all of my misgivings about AI, I was grateful for the tips. It did me well.
Now, I must go to bed. I've got a big day going out to Versailles with one of my retreat mates.
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